Alpaca Likes it Shaken, Not Stirred, In the Principality of Monaco

The 370 acres of Monaco (http://www.visitmonaco.com/) are just right for the dashing Alpaca. Everything in Monaco is surrounded by beautiful gardens that the principality maintains, despite the absence of an income tax. The state raises funds by the substantial sales tax (nearly 20% on all goods, including food and hotel) and from proceeds from the Casino in Monte Carlo (http://www.casinomontecarlo.com/en/). In fine Alpaca 007 form, he waltzed into the casino... and didn't gamble at all. Not his thing.

Instead, Alpaca decided to check out the fabulous Hotel de Paris (http://www.monte-carlo.mc/lodging-monaco/sbm/index.php?hotel=hotel-paris&lang=en), located directly across from the Casino. The Hotel de Paris is where Michelin three-star chef Alain Ducasse operates a restaurant. Sadly, it was closed so we couldn't make a reservation (although I'm not sure we could have afforded to dine there anyway), so we went instead to the famous Cafe de Paris (http://www.visitmonaco.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=Page.viewPage&pageID=190). Everything was delicious, from the appetizers (garlic tortellini) and entrées (mushroom ravioli, herb ravioli and steak) to the fabulously good crème brulee trio (coffee, chocolate and vanilla) and the exceptional fruit tarts.

Prices at the Cafe de Paris were a bit steep by our standards, but the fare and service were both very good and, given the options in Monaco, it was very reasonably priced. Also, we expected that it would be pricey, so when it wasn't as high as we expected, we were very pleased. An annoying woman (actually a Venice-based tour guide for Abercrombie & Kent) we'd met on the train told us that she and a friend went to the Cafe de Paris and paid $70 per person for tea and a few finger sandwiches, which made us think twice before going there for dinner. However, Alpaca decided that they probably charged her the ugly tax, which we thankfully did not have to pay.

The Traveling Alpaca highly and enthusiastically recommends the Cafe de Paris to anyone traveling to Monaco.

Alpaca Has More Than Just a Nice Time in Nice, France

Aaaaah, the French Riviera. Coco Chanel knew how to live (http://experts.about.com/e/c/co/Coco_Chanel.htm). Traveling Alpaca decided that he could not bear another moment without visiting the famed playground of the rich and famous. A few nights in much-more-than-nice Nice, France was the anecdote to...well, everything.

Traveling Alpaca stayed at the Primotel Suisse (http://uk.holidaysguide.yahoo.com/p-travelguide-56793-action-describe-primotel_suisse_hotel_nice-i), right on the Riviera. This beautiful hotel offered two balconies off the master bedroom and another balcony off the bathroom. Yes, the bathroom was that big. And the hotel was that awesome. The picture above is of the view from our room. Definitely more elegantly decorated than the grandmatronly-decorated Hotel Negresco (despite the price tag and despite the fame, http://www.hotel-negresco-nice.com/), the hotel caters to a younger, hipper crowd.

Cote d’Azure is really a fitting name. True California kids, we were tempted by the water and headed down to splash around a bit—Pookie braved the cold, throwing her shoes and socks across the rocky beach (the beach is comprised of rocks instead of sand, for those who have never been). My efforts were thwarted by how hard the rocks were on bare feet, and husband simply couldn’t be bothered.

Just above our hotel was an area known as the Rock (http://www.world66.com/europe/france/midi/cotedazur/nice). We were told that it used to be a fort when the Greeks (and later, Romans) controlled the area. It is now a very popular park, touted for having the best views of Nice. It was beautiful—we took several sets of stairs to the garden area, followed by another series to the lookout area where you could see the Swiss and Italian Alps on one side and the French alps on the other. We took another series of stairs which lead us to a fantastic three-story waterfall. The lower level was really cute—almost cave-like with a pool of clear, beautiful water against cream rocks. The top level is breathtaking. After taking another set of stairs, you are lead into an area with hanging tree branches blocking the mist from the huge cascading waterfall. Near the gate (not a typical chain link fence, mind you, but a true gate reminiscent of enormous estates), one is afforded even more stunning views of the Riviera region.

As far as restaurants, you really can't go wrong in France. Our favorite, however, was Auberge des Artes (http://www.allaboutnice.com/restaurants_in_Nice.html, which was sold in December 2004 and turned into an Italian place) in Nice ville, the old section of Nice (beautifully scenic, with original cobblestone streets reminiscent of the 18th century). The venison and rabbit pate was fantastic, the asparagus soup silky smooth, the octopus entree was extraordinary (seriously among the best meals I've had in my life) and the chocolate torte at the end was truly death by chocolate. Husband's pheasant and apple-pear cobbler were equally delicious. Pricey ($70 per person) but we were about ready to shove the chef in our luggage and make a run for it to the airport.